Saturday, April 28, 2007

Coming Across the Past---- an Amazing Story from an American Veteran



In Ho Chi Ming City, you can see elderly American tourists everywhere. Men were definitely in Vietnam War; while women, of course, are the wives of these veteran husbands'. You either hear a group of old comrades talking about how brave they were in the battles or see the wives not be able to catch up the stories so they can only say something like “Oh, really?, “Oh, dear.”, or “Oh, mine.” to show their sympathy.

And I am sitting in the patio of a café, watching those old Vietnam War veterans holding a map and trying to find what they can still recognize. I wonder why they want to come back to this once-like-hell place and look back to that not-so-pleasant memory. I try hard to imagine how they feel. But to be honest, I cannot. For I have never been through anything close to their scars from the war. How can I say I would know what that would be like?

What makes them want to return the place where they lost their brothers? What makes them want to revisit the country that almost made them unable to go home? I thought most people do not want to go back to those heartbreaking places. However, in Ho Chi Ming City, my assumption is thoroughly overturned.

Therefore, I bring a lot of questions with me and arrive at a seaside town approximately 8 hours from Saigon. This night, I come to a pub to dine. Young travelers are chatting about other famous tourist cites and having a good time. An American veteran comes over, trying to join us.

“Where are you guys from?”, he asks.

“I am from Taiwan. He is from Canada. And he is from France.”, I reply.

We know the veteran just wants to have someone to talk to. This town is so far away from Saigon, where most Vietnam War veterans stay. It looks like this man is left behind there. OK. He can join us. But if he carries on talking about Vietnam War, according to our ages and nationalities, none of us have memories in common with him.

He takes out his wallet and asks, “Want to see the picture of my son and daughter?” Sure. We stick out our heads. Veteran says that his son now is working at a big company as an engineer and his daughter is going to graduate this year, but she has already found a job. He sounds very proud of them. I watch the handsome son and the beautiful daughter in the photo and say, “I am sorry. But they don't look Caucasian.” I am just being polite. The son and daughter look completely Asian.

Veteran does not mind at all. It does not lessen his affection toward his children. He says that he adopted them. The war was over and he went back to his own country. He started a job and worked at a company. He and his wife did not have their own children. So they decided to adopt children. Because he has been to Vietnam, they chose to adopt Vietnamese orphans. Now the kids are both gown-up. They don't need him any more. So he has collected his pension and comes back here, choosing to spend the rest of his life here in this small town.

The veteran has bought huge oyster fields here and prepared for his long stay. Last week he posted wants ads, saying that he needs more hands to help out his field work. There are quite a lot of responses, mostly from young people. Out of his surprise, the other day a man of his age came to the interview.

The Vietnamese old man got all excited when seeing the interviewer being of his age and American. He started to bring up the same old time they share, in order to make some kind of connection. (I guess.)

(To be honest, if this Mr. was South Vietnamese, the ally of the United States, then I can understand. But it turns out that this guy was from North Vietnamese army. Then I have a hard time understanding his logic.)

Anyways, beyond our comprehension, the Vietnamese old man now got fired up, starting to brag about how valiant he was during the Vietnam War. For instance, one day he and his fellow were hiding in the thick forest, armed with a ground-to-air missile. With a bad luck, an American detective plane flew by in the air. They aimed and shot. And the plane was hit and had to perform an emergency landing. Seeing this happen, he and his companion traced the smoke of the plane and came to the landing area to search for survivors. If there was any, then their job was to make sure no one was alive.

When arriving at the scene, they saw that the two men on the plane were only seriously injured for the thick trees and their strong branches supported the plane. Two enemies got out of the plane and climbed down from the tree, one with a big cut on the forehead so the blood is pouring down on his face, and the other with a dislocated shoulder.

The Communist soldiers were hiding themselves in a not-too-far bush. Sharing only a disadvantaged pistol, they decided to wait for the right moment. With a much more advanced machine gun, their counterpart could easily defeat them.

So the stalk began. Along the path then arriving at a cave, the Americans stopped for a rest, seeming to discuss which way to take. The Communist soldiers kept a distance from being discovered. On the other hand, they were also so nervous that they were sweating all the time. American pilots were walking toward the U.S. military bases, which made the stalk getting more dangerous. The North Vietnamese whispered to discuss if they should just stop there. At this point they lost the trace of their enemies. For a moment they thought they'd better give up, in the meanwhile they heard the Americans' voices again, so they went on following. Finally the pilots came to a clear stream. Here came the opportunity!!! The one with a bleeding forehead put down his weapon and kneeled down to wash his face. What a great chance!!! The Vietnamese rose his hand gun, praying he could just kill the pilot with one clean shot. For some reason, his counterpart alertly picked up the gun and turned around, but could only stare at the deserted forest, confusedly.

At the same time, the Vietnamese soldiers swiftly withdrew back to the dark, shivering. It was so close. He almost pulled the trigger! The Americans crossed the river. And the other side of it was their military base. So the Communists could only back off. Until then, the spectacular long afternoon officially ended.

The American pilot, now the owner of the oyster fields, listening to this interviewee's old war story, got goose bumps all over. In front of him was the guy who shot down his plane 40 years ago. The Vietnamese was telling one side of the story; while he owns the other side. Not until 40 years later did he realize how close he was the moment he put down his weapon and washed his face by the river.

“Wow, this is the coolest story I have ever heard. Did you tell him? Did you tell him that you were the pilot?” I ask, excitedly.

No. I didn’t.

Why?

“I don't know. I was so shocked. I was so speechless.”, he says.


Then, will you hire him?

Oh yes. I will. I will hire him. Maybe someday in my oyster fields, when the timing is right, I will tell him, in the sunset.

I look at him. My questions are getting deeper. What kind of fates would make you and your enemy of 40 years ago meet again in this once-battle but now-fertile land, but this time you are working together as employer and employee? Wars are horrible. They can make people hate each other and have to kill each other. But when the background changes, they can be sitting down and having a good time together.

Seeing the confusion in the man's eyes, I say “thank you” to him. He asks me why. And I tell him. It takes alsmot his whole lifetime to achieve such an amazing story, and I am lucky enough to hear his splendid legend in a foreign country, at such a windy night.

Friday, April 27, 2007

I Lost My Mind in Mexico


I lost my mind in Mexico. I have been trying to get my memories here in Canada back but I couldn't. Ever since I came back, everything has seemed to be mirage to me. The night I arrived in Ottawa, I stared at the change which I got from the taxi driver for a long time. I needed a clear explanation for those exotic coins. The driver must have thought that how I could be accepted into the University of Ottawa. “What an idiot this lady is!!! She can't even count.”
I have just left for one month. But so many things happened in my trip. The journey was so hectic because of my greedy---I wanted to see too many cites. And because of that, my mind was very busy and never rested.
Arriving in Mexico City, walking in the dark street, and going to the ruins were all new adventures. Packing up my backpack and leaving for next destination always made me very excited. I was alone and I enjoyed it a lot. Every night I planned three options for the next day, but the next morning I woke up deciding to do something completely different. Doing something spontaneously was my life style. Sometimes I did not meet people so I didn't have real conversation for some days, while other time I met new friends from various countries and listened to their stories. It was so interesting not only to see people as an individual but also to notice the feature from their nationalities. That is the most appealing part of traveling.
I guess I am addicted to it.

The Moneky Temple


While asking the manager’s wife of the Guest House how to get to the Monkey Temple, she said cheerfully, “ It’s easy!” As we walked along the road that she directed us, it was the hardest path I have ever taken. The mountain path was so steep that we soon discovered it at an incline of over 30 degrees. Shimla was 2109 meters high and the Monkey Temple was 2455. Compared with the ground level, the air here was thinner, so it was easy for us to get tired, specially going uphill. I somewhat regreted of not paying for a horse ride to go up there.
However, the walking path was amazing. It stretched through a forest, in that you could smell the green grass and leaves everywhere. The walking was a pleasant forest-bath. And the closer we got to the Monkey Temple, the more monkeys we encountered.
At the very first section of the hike, only two or three monkeys peeked out from the bushes. The monkeys were afraid of humans. Once they saw people getting too close, the mother would pull back her children nervously and then run away. But later on, more and more monkeys kept showing up. Graduately, we realized that it was now the human beings afraid of the monkeys. They walked fearlessly and got very close by. Some of them stared at us with unfriendly eyes. Some of them thought that we were not much different from them, so they walked casually side by side with us. All of the sudden, two monkeys jumped onto my partner Leon. One bit his bag ( For they suspected there was food in it), and the other one held his waist. I was so scared that I screamed out loud. Leon also tried hard to get rid of them, but to no avail. These two monkey were just doing the usual things they do--- climbing, jumping, and swinging. But on a human being? No, not like that. I kept screaming. By that time, an old Indian man, who obviously knew what was happening, rushed down to us, holding a stick and shouting “ Hey, hey, hey,” trying to scare away the monkeys. He made it! We thanked him, although still in shocked, then rushed up to the Monkey Temple which was located on the top of the mountain.
The Monkey Temple was not that big and it was nothing special. But it just happened that there was one couple praying and a big monkey sittng in between them. Looking at the back of them, it was very interesting because it seemed both monkey and humans were praying. Just minutes ago, we were attacked by the monkeys so we were still in shock but amazed at what we were now seeing.
Every couple of minutes, we could still hear the same shout, “ Hey hey hey” coming from the Indian. We laughed so hard because you could just imagine some other travelers getting attacked along the path. The monkeys here just didn’t care about anyone. One local man was sitting on the fence outside the temple. Unexpectedly a monkey came, jumped up to him, and held his neck tightly. The guy shouted and yelled and pushed but nothing worked. Finally, he grabbed his sandal and hit the furry creature, forcing it to let go. We laughed so hard by watching this ridiculous situation that tears were streaming down our faces.
Thinking about what we had been through, we knew that the same path going downhill would bring us the same experience. By learning from the Indian, we picked up a strong branch on the ground and waved it anxiously to the monkeys, only hoping this would keep them off from us. This time, the monkeys were very smart and could tell that we had just learned our lesson. They kept a comfortable distance from us. However, there was quite another story for the family who passed us by and wanted to go up to the Monkey Temple. Their situation was exactly the same as our previous one. They did not have any idea of what to fear and nor did they know what to expect. So, of course, they didn’t protect themselves enough. A whole bunch of monkeys went over, surrounded them and robbed their bags. The three children and the mom were scared, so they cried, screamed and rushed up the hill all at the same time. The monkeys were just like robbers. They sat down in front of us, took their time to take out their newly found treasures and analyzed their profits. Being not able to find any food, they seemed quite disappointed, so they left the clothes lying all over on the ground. The father(whose face was now very pale) picked up the clothes with his shivering hands and ran up to his family. Although I was holding a branch in my hand, I still almost fainted when I saw the whole scene. It scared me so much that I staggered along the path and hurried up to move down hill. Leon said that he had never seen me walking so fast, which was very true.
When we got down the hill, there were only very few monkeys walking around. They were not so threatening anymore. Nothing could compare to our experience heading up the mountain. At this time, we met a European couple who were also going uphill, as happy as we were before when we started the trip----- so naïve! Trying to be helpful, we offered to give them the branches and told them there were many aggrassive monkeys up there. IT’S SCARY!
“ How come? Monkeys are very lovely. They are so cute.” they said, refusing to take the branches.
“ O.K. See you! Good luck!” We shouted back.
As we watched them heading uphill cheerfully, I told Leon that we should just wait there to see what sould happen. I bet when they came back, there were many scratches on their faces.
By the way, we finally figured out why there were so many types of beautiful carved sticks being sold everywhere in Shimla.

PS. Shimla is the summer capital of India. The Monkey Temple is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Shimla.

Camille's Travel History

Camille's Travel History

- 1992 China (8 days)
- 1993 The U.S. (13 days)
- 1995 India & Thailand (2 months)
- 1997 South Africa,Namibia,Botswana,and Zimbabwe (3 months)
- 1999 Hawaii & Tokyo, Japan (10 days)
- 1999 Vietnam (2 weeks)
- 2001 Sep. ~ 2003 April Canada (1.5 years)
- 2001 Dec. ~ 2002 Jan. Mexico (1 month)
- 2002 Dec. Spain and Grenoble, France (3 weeks)
- 2003 Feb. New York (10 days)
- 2004 Aug. Singapore, Malaysia, and Bangkok, Thailand (2 weeks)
- 2006 Aug. & Sep. Europe (25 days)

One Fine Day in Madrid


What was I thinking of? O.K. The moment before that guy mugged me, actually I was thinking about how lovely Spain is. However, ironically it turned out to be the only robbery I have ever experienced in my travel life. In case you want to know, I have so far been to 14 countries, some of which sound dangerous.
So how did it exactly happen? I wandered down the street, just checking around this city after I came back from a long trip to Barcelona and Grenoble . After a satisfying buffet lunch, I walked on a crowded street at 2: 30 in the afternoon, trying to find this internet place last time I went when I was in Madrid . I looked at the packed street and thought “God! I love Spain .” And then it happened. A guy came from my back, snatched the waist bag under my unzipped Gore Tex jacket, and tried to pull it away. How could it possible be? I mean, I had so many clothes on so that I could barely take this tight waist bag off every night when I went back to the hotel I was staying. Now when I think back, I realized that I needn’t have struggled with him.
However, at that time, I did cover my bag instinctly with both hands. Accompany that, a high-pitched screaming burst out and the bad guy panicked. Am I one of those psychotic ladies that can do nothing but only crying? Of course I am not. This scary howling was, surely, not from me. Its origin was a lady across from the street carrying her groceries. She saw it happening, well I guess, before I did, and even learned what’s going on also before I did. I was just quietly and gracefully putting my both hands on the waist bag.
Thanks to this nice lady. Of course, until now I don’t even know she was trying to help or she didn’t mean it, she was just purely releasing her fear. Anyways, we struggled for only five seconds and he ran away. I ran after him, which was considered a silly reaction afterwards, until the next turn where he disappeared. I stood there, realizing that I didn’t see his face at all for all of this happened and ended so quickly. Looking around, I felt that every male looked all very suspicious now. I turned back and didn’t know which lady was the one who, intently or accidentally, helped me. But it was not too difficult. There was a lady keeping a loud volume so that there was no way I could miss her. Now she was still standing at where she was, calmed a little bit, but yelling something in Spanish that I did not understand a word.

The only Spanish I could speak was “Gracias”. I yelled this word back to her and she got encouraged. She kept saying a lot of things that I would never understand even she rose her voice. (When facing foreigners, most people do this because they have an illusion that this will make the foreigners understand what they are trying to say.) I continued my journey but EVERYBODY started to look fishy. All passers-by now were potential criminals for…, well, one long afternoon and that night. The next morning I woke up with that same pleasant thought that I was happy to be there in Spain . That’s me. Seems that I have never learned, have I?