Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Jet Lag‧Arriving and Leaving Cairo ‧Aswan


After four hours of flight from Taipei to Bangkok, waiting and transferring, and another nine hours of flying, when I arrived in Cairo, it was 5 in the morning.

Sounds easy! If you think flying shouldn’t be too hard for me since I am a frequent traveler, then there’s a big misunderstanding here. I do have a problem that I don’t want to whine about since there’s not much you can do. And that is I have always suffered from jet lag. It always takes 10 days or 2 weeks for me to be over the pain. This time when I arrived in Cairo, the tiredness from the travel plus jet lag, I supposed I would be exhausted so I made a reservation of an airport pickup and 3-day hotel stay. And that was the only preparation I did for the 2-month trip. Other than that, I was counting on Lonely Planet: Middle East in my backpack.

Anyways. Ever since I got into the budget hotel, the weird hotel owner had kept staring at me. (I was new so I didn’t realize how much attention a single female traveler would get in the Middle East. Of course, later on I learned.)He made me very uncomfortable. In the meanwhile, I noticed that there was another guy sitting on the couch beside. Due to the dark lighting, I couldn’t tell whether this guy was a local or guest.

Just as the owner was keeping his eyes on me and I was feeling creepy, the guy in the couch asked me if I wanted to buy a 5-day-4-night package to go down south to Aswan with him. (Right now I knew he was a guest for his North American accent.), leaving 10pm the same night.

(Camille thought: Holly smokes. That’s tonight 10pm. But I just arrived.)

I asked him to give me some moment that I would get back to him after taking a shower. So during the shower, I thought about how Lonely Planet said. From Luxor to Aswan, there was no way you could travel independently. It is compulsory for all travelers to join the convoy. While I couldn’t travel alone, I might as well join this guy’s invitation and go straight down to the south.

OK. I said to him, a Californian.

I couldn’t believe that I was leaving Cairo the same day I arrived. What should I do from 7am to 10pm?

My future travel partner A asked me if I would like to go to Giza with him and another traveler from Germany. The private taxi was 165 Egyptian pounds so that we could share.

(Come on. Give me a break! As a middle-aged woman, I am so tired that I am not going to do anything too physically demanding. OK?)

I said I just wanted to do something simple for the day. (Oh well, I have two months. Why rush?) So I would just meet him that night.

So that was the story. The same day I arrived in Cairo, I took off to Aswan. And the train we took was a slow train but we didn’t know that.

(Kids playing on the train.)




(Cute little girl.Sorry for the blurriness. The train was moving. So did the kids.)

The stateroom was for six and there were exact six of us there. I couldn’t lean to my left, nor could I tilt to the right. All suddenly I remembered that last time I was in such a difficult situation was on the train from Agra to Varanasi, India, which lasted for 17 hours. As the time passed, it was 12 and all the others were gone. Finally A and I had the whole room for ourselves so I got up to stretch and then laid down on the couch. (See the first photo. I was just pretending that I was asleep. Actually the whole body of mine ached so much.)

Weird enough. The owner of our hotel, also the guy we bought the package from, told us that we would be there at 8 the next morning, but we kept wondering. We tried to ask around. But people either didn’t speak English or told us different stories. By now we had figured that Middle Eastern people are just like Indians. Their conception toward time is so different from us. When they say the time, it doesn’t really mean anything. By the time we got to Aswan (Congratualtions!!!), it was 2pm instead of 8am, which we were told. And the train ride was 16 hours.

Someone holding a sign with A’s name on it rushed us to start the sightseeing tour right from the platform. I felt like puking. Alas! I had never been able to sleep well for the past 48 hours. Right now I couldn’t tell whether the weariness was due to the travel or jet lag. Somehow, I thought it was kind of a smart way to deal with jet lag.


Note: About convoy. Ever since the 1997 massacre at the temple of Hatshepsut near Luxor which caused 69 deaths, Egyptian government decided this convoy system to protect their tourists.



Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Nine Suns in the Middle East

It is not very smart to choose going to the Middle East in the summer. However, with a profession like mine, I have a three-month-long summer vacation along with a month long only of winter vacation. It seems that it makes more sense to go to the far-away Middle East in the summer. So even though knowing it would be scorchingly hot, I had to work up my courage to make the trip happen.

If you think 50 days is some kind of a trip, then I have to remind you something. Even going back to the 3-month Southern Africa trip in 1997, it sounded bragging. But on the road, I met so many travelers making round-the –world trips for one or two years. So comparatively, the trip I was making was just nothing. This time it was no exception. I’ve met a lot of travelers going round the world in the Middle East. Therefore the 50 days sounded pathetic. Nevertheless, considering being a middle-aged woman, I shouldn’t be put together to be judged with the young. The tough long-distance overland travel ought to be left to young men. And I have to admit that there are a lot of things in my life that I want to do but will not be able to do. The following is the summary of the route I made in this trip.


I flew from Taipei to Bangkok, and then transferred to Cairo.
















Stayed in Egypt for 13 days and then took a ferry, crossed the border to Jordan.

From Amman, the capital city of Jordan, I crossed the border to Jerusalem, trying to go into Israel but got rejected for not having the visa in advance, so I was sent back to Jordanian side. (And at that moment I decided the title for my article. How does A Day Trip between Jordan and Israel Borders sound? Alas! )


From Jordan, succeed of crossing the border to Syria. (What an ahievement!!!)



Came to Turkey after Syria.











Many thanks to Lee for receiving a tired dirty smelly traveler like Camille as a guest after I traveled for over thirty days. I rested at her place, stayed with her sweet family for a week and moved on to my dream city Istanbul. And due to an unexpected allergy outbreak and most route being finished, I changed my flight coming back to Taiwan 10 days earlier then scheduled. Luckily, now I am home and still under the treatment of this allergy thing.

The above is the introduction of this 50-day trip of Middle East. Hope you stick to my blog and Camille will share the stories with you.